Toner is the most important part towards maintaing the white/silver/grey hair color. It keeps the brassy yellow out of your hair and evens out the color. Now, there are two ways I keep my hair freshly toned throughout the year.
Permanent Liquid Hair Toner
I have talked about this toner before, but this is the toner I use immediately after bleaching. As far as I know, Wella Color Charms is the only brand of toner that can be found in the US (I could be wrong). For about $6.50 a box at your local Sally's, this stuff works magic.
For both of these toners, I mix with 10 volume peroxide. You should use no more than a 20 volume with this because 1) a 30 volume will cause more of a lift in your hair color and the entire toner won't be deposited and 2) using a 30 or 40 volume after bleaching is just a no no (it's so damaging) and also lifts more of the toner out of the hair rather than deposits.
T-14 Pale Ash Blonde - This is the one I used immediately after bleaching. This is a blue based toner which means it cancels out orange tones in your hair. If your hair is EXTREMELY yellow (or slightly orange) after bleaching, this toner deposits stronger and faster. For those of you that are looking for more of a grey color than white, this one is great for that. Since it is blue based, the grey color in your hair will appear stronger than with the T-18 - this is the more extreme of the two.
T-18 Lightest Ash Blonde - I used this toner whenever my hair is looking a little too brassy. It is a purple based toner which means it cancels out yellow tones in your hair. If your hair is super yellow or almost orange, this one will not be strong enough. If your hair is semi brassy, with the yellow tones appearing to be pretty light, this is the toner to use. It will not help your hair develop to a grey color, but it will get it to a very light blonde/white color if that is the look you are trying to achieve. I used this particular toner when the hair at the base of my scalp starts to turn yellow and brassy.
Purple Shampoos
I used purple shampoo about two times a week when I wash my hair. It is the lesser of two evils and is far less harsh on your hair. Now, I've gone through TONS of different purple shampoos and have come to find that most are the exact same and will work similarly on your hair. For me, Fudge's Clean Blonde Violet Toning Shampoo (about $17 on BeautyBay) is the strongest purple shampoo I have ever used so it takes the #1 spot for me. However, since I have to special order it from overseas, I don't like to use it every time I wash my hair. That is why I trade on and off with Matrix Essentials So Silver Shampoo (about $30 on Amazon). It's less thick and dense as Fudge's shampoo and has been a trooper for almost two years. I am down to my last few drops of the Matrix Shampoo which is why I recently bought Schwarzkopf Professional BC Color Save Silver Shampoo (about $8 on Amazon) to replace it since it has gotten some great reviews. It does the job just as well as the Fudge one and it smells great!
The key to a good purple shampoo is the color.
The darker the purple, the stronger it is going to be. So when searching for good purple shampoos, always open it and look at the color of the liquid. Getting a shampoo that is almost black in color means that the product is going to deposit and help eliminate the yellow in your hair faster.
My shampoo routine varies, but I do a purple shampoo rinse in the shower once a week (normally Scharwarkopf's Silver Shampoo) and then on another day during the week, I let the shampoo sit on my head for about 15-20 minutes (normally Fudge's Clean Blonde) before rinsing and heavily conditioning.
IMPORTANT: leaving the shampoo in your hair for an excess amount of time will cause it to turn purple!
I am always here for hair questions and I know that this is a lot to take in and learn! So feel free to hit me up in the comments section below.
Hope all is well.
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